This is simply a basic listing of the most important needs for a Bearded Dragon
Temperature: Basking spot temp.....28 to 32C
Cool area temp.....26C approx
These temps allow proper digestion, ability to hunt & eat well, while also giving the availability of a 'cool area' they can retreat to, to self-regulate their body temps. Your beardie's colourings will also be more evident if kept in the correct temperatures. A digital thermometer is a great way to read temperatures accurately.
UVA/UVB:
Necessary when natural sunlight is not available. To be effective, beardies must be able to get within 16-30cm of the UV light. Logs for climbing will achieve this. Make sure your bearded dragon is using the basking point. UV lights must be changed at least once a year. Please note that UVB does not get through glass or thick plastic.
Heating:
A strong white (uncoloured) basking light will ensure the overall well-being of your beardie while at the same time giving them the basking temps they require-they like it bright. No coloured or night lights are necessary. A timer set for 8-10 hours a day is an easy way to ensure your beardie gets the light, heat & UV they need.
Feeding:
Morning-1-2 hrs after lights on-being cold-blooded, this gives the bearded dragon the heat they need to chase & catch the prey offered.
Afternoon-at least 2 hrs before lights off-this allows for full digestion, decreasing any risk of impaction.
Fresh, finely chopped salad/veg/fruit should be available at all times. Examples include chinese cabbages, bokchoy, carrot, sweet potato, zucchini, clover, dandelion flowers, apples, melons.
(**Iceberg lettuce, rhubarb, avocado must NOT be given to your beardie**)
Live insects include woodies, crickets and silkworms. Mealworms should be avoided until your beardie is at least one year of age. Your beardie should have a very healthy appetite and be able to consume 10-20 live insects per day minimum. This can decrease as adults to approximately 35 live large feeders per week. Rule of thumb is to feed prey that is no bigger than the space between their eyes. Salad sizes increase with their age.
Water: a shallow water bowl, regularly cleaned & changed, can be included in their cage set-up. If this does not suit, misting with a spray bottle twice daily must be done to avoid dehydration.
Substrate:
It is really a personal choice. A lighter coloured substrate will enhance the beardie's colourings. It is also recommended that any coarse, loose substrate be avoided, thus decreasing the risk of impaction. Reptile sands, barks, astro turf and butchers paper can all be used. Faeces must be cleaned out daily and substrate regularly depending on type used.
Cage requirements:
An adult bearded dragon requires no less than a 4ftx2ft enclosure (ideally). Babies can cope with this size. Lighting, heat, UV and diet are the most important ingredients to a healthy bearded dragon. Adulthood is reached at approximately 2 years of age, with the average lifespan of a well cared for bearded dragon being 8-10 years.
Colour:
Correct heat, lighting and UV are contributing factors to your beardie's show of colour. Those young not showing colour already may take until sexual maturity-anywhere from 6months to a year and a half-before colours begin to truly show.
Handling:
Juvenile bearded dragons are generally skittish and extremely fast. They settle with time, and from 6 months onwards are much easier to handle and interact with. They rely on trust and confidence in their owner, which is built over time with feeding and handling. Please allow 3-5 days for your new beardie to settle in to his/her new surroundings. And up to 4 weeks before long periods of everyday handling of under 3 month old juveniles
Further Reading:
You are encouraged to find as much information as you can about bearded dragons from different sources. This is best done through internet reptile forums, reptile expos and confiding in other Herpetologists.
*Information given about reptile care is in our opinion and is gathered through years of experience and by confiding in herpetologists and other relevant sources. Our opinion may not be the same as other reptile keepers (herpetologists). Some references are taken from the Department of Environment and Resource Management Code of Practice which is in accordance with section 174a of the Nature Conservation Act 1992.
Thanks to Cathy Also
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